Singer Model 1014 Manual
This Singer 28k type Sewing Machine Instruction Book is available to download at no cost suitable for machines 27K 28K 127K 128K boat shuttle. Singer Industrial Instruction Books- FREE downloads. Singer sewing machine manual 6SS.pdf File size 277K. Singer sewing machine manual 7-33.pdf File size 557K. Singer sewing machine manual 7 CLASS.pdf File size 746K. Singer sewing machine manual 7 CLASS 2 NDLS.pdf File size 1.3M. Singer sewing machine manual 8P.pdf File size 192K.
The needle bar on my Singer Stylist 413 has become loose and I can't figure out how to fix it. It doesn't stay in place and I can literally turn the needle back and forth. I had to adjust the needle bar to align the machine marks with the bottom of the casing after I had replaced the vertical gear (which broke into pieces) and reset the hook timing. Ever since, I can't seem to get the needle bar to stay securely in place. Can anyone help? I also can't find a repair manual for my machine. Would it be possible to contact the store/company that you purchased your vertical gear from and tell them your problem?
They may be able to help. Singer has a lot of video's on their site and may have one for this problem. You can email or call them and they may be able to help you. Perhaps a Singer retail store in your area would be will to help you. I have found that many times they do have a repair person that will help with small problems. Google Singer and your zip for local stores.If you are in need of a manual for your machine this site has a free downloadable copy. Your machine was built in the early 1980s making it a definite 'vintage' machine with most of the gears made with silicone, rubber, and plastics for the gear 'teeth'.
Over time these materials wear down, crumble, and snap off, and it sounds to me as though that is the problem with your vintage Singer.The previous poster is right - you need to take this to someone with experience and training (a professional or a 'self-taught' repair tech with a sterling reputation). Not only is this a tricky repair, it requires specialised tools and access to parts.Not all vintage sewing machine parts are 'new-milled', too, and with a vintage machine it's common for a repair tech to have to use 'salvage parts' with unknown sewing hours and conditions - the part may look fab but has been stressed by sewing conditions (too fast seaming, lack of regular maintenance, dusty sewing area, more) - with a salvage part no repair tech worth his or her salt can make a prediction as to the longevity of that part. Be sure to ask your tech if he/she is using salvage parts on your repair, and make sure he/she does a servicing on it whilst in their workshop - cleaning, oiling, and checking for potential problems. With vintage machines, an annual servicing is the only way to ensure sewing hours reliability.Once parts begin to break down on a machine it becomes a money pit even if new-milled parts are available, btw. Consider replacing your vintage with a comparable new machine under warranty. A good repair tech will fall in love with your vintage machine but will also tell you about the money pit factor and will recommend a new under warranty machine.I live in Scotland after 50+years in the US; I teach sewing and do limited vintage machine repairs.
When one of my students brings me a vintage machine that has sadly become a money pit I usually recommend the 3321 with the 4-step buttonholer or 3323 with the one-step buttonholer Talent line as these are fairly user-friendly with good features that aren't quickly outgrown, are comparable to your vintage 6215, and reasonably priced. The Confidence line is a step-up but doesn't have the same reliability reputation as the Talent line. November 29, 2015 0 found this helpfulFirst of all, download this free copy of the user manual from the Singer website:Be sure you've followed ALL the instructions for winding the bobbin and restoring the settings for sewing mode. March 14, 2016 1 found this helpfulIf you want to keep this machine, invest in a 'professional' to go over it for you. Sometimes a needle breaks and all pieces don't get removed, to wrong type of thread used, bobbin aged, esp if using metal bobbin. Keeping machine clean is very important, and oiled regularly WHERE it is required. Hope you have the manual for it, OR you can google MANUAL for said machine and model.
They are online, some free. I recently updated from my 30 year old machine. Had one from the 1960 prior to that.
And yes, they moved to the basement for non-intricate sewing. They can still do tarps, heavy jackets, jean zippers, etc. Taking care of machines is what keeps them going. March 15, 2016 0 found this helpfulWhen thread is bunching underneath the fabric it is usually a problem of tension balance.
The upper thread doesn't go down enough. Reduce the tension on the needle thread by putting the tension knob on an average tension level.There is also a little screw on the bobbin holder that adjust the tension on the bobbin thread you can tighten it with a screw driver. As Grandma J. Mitchell on demand english keygen software free.
I am a novice seamster though I've not had this problem before now. I have a Singer Esteem II sewing machine that is just a few years old. I was sewing up some thick, pinned fabric the other night, was probably going too fast and the 'heavy duty' needle came down on the pin and snapped the tip right off.This wasn't new to me and I set about unscrewing the screw from the needle bar to remove the broken one. I then inserted a brand new Singer heavy duty needle that was exactly the same as the one that snapped.
I must have tried twenty times to get the needle up, positioned correctly (flat side facing back) and the screw tightened so I could continue on, but it simply would not. I checked, rechecked, and checked again to make sure it was pushed up to the stop pin, that it was straight and perpendicular to the needle plate and even got pliers to see if my mini screw driver wasn't able to tighten the screw up sufficiently. It was a tight as possible, but as soon as I let go of the needle to see if it was in, it would fall right back out. I even had to remove the plate and fish the darn thing out because it fell through at one point.Any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I've barely used this machine, have done maintenance regularly and have never had a problem with changing/inserting needles before.
Thanks, in advance, for any advice you might have.=0). I sew leather pretty often on my Singer heavy duty machine, so the timing goes out of wack constantly. Usually I'm able to fix the timing of the needle to the hook, but this time the needle doesn't seem to go low enough to catch the thread so I attempted to try adjusting it myself, but there are no marking to set the height and there is nothing about it in the manual. I have tried setting the needle up and down, but the closest I got was when I try to sew the stitches are fine on top of the fabric, but on the bottom there's a thread looping mess.Please help! I'm new here and hoping for some help or guidance. I have just bought a Singer 99k. I think it's a Simanco 33663.
I've given the machine a good cleaning and oil, I'm happy with how it's cleaned up, all seems well apart from something that should be happening with the bobbin thread.When I attempt to sew, the top thread does just what it should in respect that it goes around the bobbin case and pulls up the bobbin thread. So far so good.:o)But then when I attempt a few stitches all I get is the top cotton in place, (these stitches pop out because they are not anchored.) There's no sign of the bobbin thread:o( I've read some trouble shooting threads and used a new needle and adjusted the bobbin tension.I don't know much about these machines yet and was wondering if it's a timing issue, but given that the top thread collects bobbin thread everytime, I thought maybe timing is OK? I've looked underneath the machine and can see where the metal part catches the top thread and takes it round to the bobbin, but I can't work out which bit might involve connecting the bobbin thread! I thought a vintage machine would be easy to maintain on my own!Any advice would be very much appriciated.Many thanks in advance:o). October 16, 2015 1 found this helpfulYou can take the machine to a repair tech - it's the bobbin gear (or the rubber 'belt') and needs to be changed and the repair tech will have access to the part - probably has a tub full of them:) This applies to 99Ks that are hand crank or electrified - the workings are the same on both types. I do a lot of refurb and repair on these here in Scotland for my Sewing 101 students.There is a free download available online for servicing the hand-cranks (99K) and treadles (usually the 66K) if you're feeling adventurous, and spare parts can be purchased once you know the name of the part you need.
The first link is for the service manual - be prepared it takes some time to download all of the sections but it's well worth the time! The Tools For Self Reliance charity group refurbishes non-electric vintage machines and then donates the machines to be used by sewing business entrepreneurs - you will be able to download without having to pay, join, or pledge a machine donation but if you are interested, all the info you need is there as well. The manual at the link below is aimed at Singer vintage non-electrics and you will find it fascinating and easy to follow:This link takes you to a parts supplier - he carries an amazing selection of spares for vintage Singers and is very reasonably priced:Word of warning - these vintage treasures are addictive! October 23, 2015 0 found this helpfulBRAVO!! For your wonderful answer!
I'm also addicted to old machines - and just ran into this very thing on a 99K. WHAT a good little lump of pig iron, though. All cleaned, serviced, oiled and adjusted, it's so quiet that you can't hear the little thing running and it sews extraordinarily well. I'm on to a 221 Featherweight - and then a TOTAL refurb of a Singer 66 treadle machine. Good thing I have a Free-Westinghouse to SEW on whilst I work over these Singers!! I am asking on behalf of my mum, she has a Singer Concerto 2 Model 9217 sewing machine.
Her sewing machine runs itself! It starts running when she turns it on without touching any buttons, etc. Without using the pedal and it is quite fast.
So out of safety she has turned it off and not used it since. I have assumed it may be an electrical problem, but I honestly have no idea with sewing machines with how they work, etc. Could anybody please point me to some sort of direction of what this could be or connected with?
May 27, 2015 0 found this helpfulThis is an electrical problem - it could be a faulty connection, a broken-worn-and/or frayed wire in the foot pedal - she may not put any pressure on the foot pedal but if the problem is in the foot pedal wiring, it could easily be transmitting the wrong signal (to operate at a high speed) to the machine; or the problem could be in the machine just behind the connection point (where the foot pedal connects to the machine). There could be a crack in the connection point where the foot pedal and power cords join the machine OR the power point at the mains (wall outlet plug).It really is not a job for the average home sewer. Most electricians or someone with some electrical skill and training should be able to find and fix the problem but it would be best if you could take the machine to a sewing machine repair technician. A sewing machine repair tech will have the skills, tools, and access to repair parts.Until you have the machine checked by someone who really understands electricity, please do not run the machine - any user runs a very real risk of injury from the speeding needle and presser foot, or from an electrical shock.
Singer VS-1, VS-2, VS-3, 27, 28, 127, 128typehomemanufacturermaterialfabricstitchpowertreadle, handcrank, add-on electricfeedneedle(s)one 15x1 (except VS1, which uses 20x1 )The Singer Model 27 and later model 127 were a series of produced by the from the 1880s to the 1960s. (The 27 and the 127 were full-size versions of the Singer 28 and later model 128 which were three-quarter size).
They were Singer's first sewing machines to make use of ' technology. Millions were produced. They are all steel and cast iron, and were built before the advent of, and so they were designed to be repaired rather than replaced. Consequently many remain today, some in collections and others still in service. In company literature they were called 'the woman's faithful friend the world over'. Identification guideThe many Vintage Singer sewing machine models look very similar. Figure 1 from Whitehill's patent 326821In the decade that followed, another gentleman applied his mind to advancing the state of the art.
Scottish immigrant Robert Whitehill (1 June 1845 – 24 November 1903 ), founder of the Whitehill Manufacturing Company, became interested in sewing machines and subsequently patented an improvement to the take-up arm. He proceeded to manufacture his own machines from about 1875 until 1883.
He then designed the sewing machine which would shortly become Singer's answer to the White machine. He applied for patent on 1 July 1884 and received US patent 326821 on 22 September 1885.In his design Whitehill retained the White machine's dimensions and most aspects of its exterior; his contribution mainly consists of the new interior. That is, he rethought the entire powertrain—the mechanism that carries energy from the handwheel to the needlebar, to the bobbin driver, and to the feed dogs. He also conceived the bullet-shaped shuttle, which the White machine promptly adopted over its more traditional boat shuttle. Model 27 advertising card: 'This machine is unequaled' He took his prototype to the Singer head office and showed it to the office manager James Bolton (1832–1916). Bolton was thrilled with the machine and suggested a sewing competition against the best Singer models on-hand at the factory.
Whitehill's prototype prevailed, and he sold the rights to it for 8,000 (USD 212,000 adjusted), with USD 1,000 held in reserve until he had perfected it for them.At the time, Singer was already selling two 'high arm' models (one a, the other an oscillating shuttle) which represented a new break from the company's established history of 'low arm' machines. The Whitehill design became the third Singer machine with a high arm, and quickly eclipsed the other two—neither of which Bolton liked anyway.
The Whitehill machine took the name 'Vibrating Shuttle 1' when, two years later, it evolved into the improved 'Vibrating Shuttle 2'.Within a couple of years took notice, and printed the following praise for Whitehill's design, especially for its powertrain:Of Vibrating ShuttlesThese are shuttles of the long description, moving in a segment of a circle. There are several varieties. The most novel machine of this kind is the vibrating shuttle machine just produced by the Singer Manufacturing Company. In this case the shuttle itself consists of a steel tube, into the open end of which the wound reel is dropped, and is free to revolve quite loosely. Variation of tension is thus obviated in a very simple manner. The chief point of interest in the machine is undoubtedly the means employed in transferring the motion from the main shaft to the underneath parts, an arrangement as ingenious and effective as any device ever introduced into stitching mechanism. It is the invention of Mr.
Robert Whitehall sic, and consists of a vertical rocking shaft situated in the arm of the machine. Motion is imparted to it by means of an elbow formed upon the main shaft acting upon two arms, called wipers, projecting from the rocking shaft, the angle formed by the arms exactly coinciding with that of the elbow in its revolution.This admirable motion will no doubt attract much attention from mechanists and engineers.Production The 27 series had a long production run, including improved versions and many variants tailored to customer needs. Model 27-2 shown in an 1892 trade card The model series evolved over time through these versions:YearOriginal nameCurrently AKANotes1885-1887High Arm (VS version), Vibrating Shuttle 1, V.S.
1experimental, very low production1887-1891Vibrating Shuttle 2, V.S. 2Model 27-2., Model 27 Fiddlebedshuttle overhauled1891-1913Model 27bed changed to rectangular1910-1940s.Model 127a 'modernized' 27—see 'Modernization' below. Not to be confused with the 27-2 variant; see Variations table below. Many records from this era were lost during.Portable versions A model 27/127 coincidentally weighs 27 pounds (12 kg), plus the weight of its motor, treadle, or hand crank, its light, and its case or cabinet.
Such a weight strains the meaning of the term 'portable', even when fitted with only a hand crank and minimal wood case. (Today's typically weigh 3 to 5 pounds (1.4 to 2.3 kg).) This quickly led Singer to produce a 3/4ths size version intended for portability, exactly as the was doing with its new 3/4ths size ' machine.Singer's portable version evolved thus:YearOriginal nameCurrently AKANotes1886-1890Vibrating Shuttle 3, V.S. 3Model 28-1evolved from the VS-2; bed changed to rectangular1890-1918Model 28Model 28-21910-1962Model 128a 'modernized' 28—see 'Modernization' belowModernization Models 127 and 128 are the 'modernized' versions of the 27 and 28, and carry the following improvements:.
A new shuttle ejector button, invented in 1910, eases removal of the shuttle for rethreading. The button is located on the improved shuttle frame, Singer part number 54507, which can be retrofitted onto older model 27 and 28 machines. The bobbin winder is mounted high on the pedestal, where a small rubber tire occupying its pulley makes contact with the motor belt.
The new mounting position solves the bobbin winder belt problem discussed later. Dedicated motor mounting lugs, cast into the rear of the pillar, standardize the position of the motor bracket. A decade later, motor designs will settle down into a side-mounted motor that attaches to these lugs using an L-shaped bracket.
Automatic tension release when the presser bar is lifted, replacing the manual tension release achieved by pressing a spoon shaped device just below the tension regulator in the earlier machines. This device is no longer present in the 127 and 128. The shuttle was modified again—see below.Shuttle changes With each major new version came changes in the shuttle: ModelsShuttle assembly part numberShuttle body part numberNotesPictureVS-1??originally like the 's shuttle, but there were many changes as the VS-1 evolved. Singer parts lists give contradictory information about the 8301 shuttle body. The parts lists state that both the 8227 and the 8327 shuttle assemblies use it, but the pictures given of those assemblies show completely different shuttle bodies. The correct answer is probably 8327 because shuttles found in the wild stamped '8301' or sometimes '301' are the later wasp-waisted sort.None of the four shuttle models can be substituted for each other; if they even fit at all, they will cause skipped stitches. However, there was once an aftermarket of replacement shuttles, and the replacements were sometimes contrived to be compatible with both the 27/28 and 127/128 models.
Consequently there are extant shuttles which have no stamped part number and which bear the features of both the 8301 and 54504.Variations Once production settled down into the model 27 and 28 versions, Singer produced many variants that were intended for different cabinets and power sources. The variant number was listed after the version number and (except for the K designation) a dash; for example, the model 27 standard treadle variant is '27-3'.VariantDifference27-1, 28-1, 127-1, 128-1standard treadle variant, designation later changed to 3 to avoid confusion with V. 1 version.27-2, 28-2, 127-2, 128-2standard hand-crank variant, designation later changed to 4 to avoid confusion with V. White Sewing Machine Company's 'Number 8', a copy of the model 127At about USD100 apiece (about USD2500 adjusted), Singer sewing machines were pricey, even considering the payment plans and trade-in allowances that were offered. The high prices created a demand for knock-offs made by bargain competitors.
Diagram of treadle table from 1896 instruction manualA treadle obtains power from the user's legs. Early treadles were for just one foot making a heel-toe rocking motion, but all later treadles, including those offered with 27-series machines, were for two feet making a left-heel-right-toe (or vice versa) motion.
The treadle provided with 27-series machines has a negative: one complete down-up motion produces exactly four stitches.As a foot treadle, the machine mounts in a cabinet about the size of an adult schooldesk. The treadle pad is built into the cabinet's base right at the user's feet. A round leather 'treadle belt' passes up from the treadle, up through the cabinet, over the handwheel by following the belt groove, back down through the cabinet again, and then back to the treadle.The belt is joined end-to-end with a clip to make a loop, and can be shortened and reclipped (using special 'treadle belt pliers') as needed to keep proper tension. The treadle belt is tanned leather, 3/16' in diameter, and is normally sold in 72' lengths.Hand crank.
Model 128 with hand crankHand cranks provide greater portability at the cost of greater exertion. A hand crank machine fit in a small case, making it a piece of luggage rather than a piece of furniture. It also cost significantly less than a full treadle. Indeed, the 3/4th size model 28/128 derivative was specifically intended for this end.The crank is geared to give a negative so that it can crank the machine at high speed.
Each rotation of the crank handle produces three rotations of the handwheel, and hence three stitches.External electric motor Electric motors were offered (by Singer and others) to retrofit these and other treadle machines with electric power.Cabinet-mount. Philip Diehl's treadle-controlled electric motorEarly electric conversions consisted of mounting a motor in the treadle cabinet. The treadle belt was shortened to run only from the motor's pulley to the handwheel. The treadle pad was then given a mechanism for controlling the motor's speed in the manner of a modern car gas pedal.These conversions were invented and developed by, an inventor under contract with Singer. His efforts bore fruit in 1884, before the first VS-1 was even built and fully five years before Singer's first natively electrified model.
He continued to make improvements for many years thereafter. Pillar-mount. Figure 3 from Frederick Diehl's pillar-mount motor patentLater motor kits dispensed entirely with the treadle, treadle belt, and cabinet. The motor bolted right to the machine's pillar, where—thanks to its compact size—it could remain even when the machine was tilted into its cabinet or enclosed within its cover.
This was an improvement over earlier pivoting-motor designs, large offset belt-drive motors, and the many schemes for entirely replacing the handwheel with a motor. Credit for the original idea may belong to George F. Green, who proposed it back in 1879 but was probably unable to build or obtain the sufficiently compact motor required by his design.
It was Frederick Diehl and Martin Hemler, Singer employees, who finally developed the idea in 1921.Speed is controlled by a, originally mounted on the treadle pad but later as an independent pedal for foot or knee control. The kit includes a dual electrical outlet that mounts alongside the machine in its case: one outlet is for the motor and is controlled by the foot pedal; the other is for a sewing lamp (see below) and is always energized. A sewing machine thus electrified now fit entirely inside a woman-portable carrying case.Electric motors became so common that Singer made provision for them: the model 127/128 'modernized' versions included mounting lugs for a motor, whereas earlier models had to be drilled and tapped. Some 127/128 machines were even given motors right at the factory, and of those, a few models used a smaller lighter solid handwheel instead of the larger heavier spoked handwheel used on machines sold as treadles. The spoked handwheel is better for treadles because its larger inertia keeps it spinning longer, whereas the lighter solid handwheel is better for motors because its smaller inertia causes it to start and stop more quickly. Advertising card from 1920s showing motor kit The add-on motor drives the handwheel by means of a rubber belt.
An extra pulley tack-welded on, to drive the bobbin winderModels 27 and 28 were designed before electrified sewing machines were common, and the location of the bobbin winder reflects this. It is positioned to intercept the treadle belt as it passes back down into the cabinet. Motorization removes the treadle belt and so opens the question of how to drive the bobbin winder.To answer this, the modernized models 127 and 128 moved the bobbin winder up several inches where, with a suitable tire, it can run directly off the handwheel. The older 27 and 28, on the other hand, require a dedicated belt to drive the bobbin winder, but the motor kit only has one pulley, resulting in problems:. Driving both the handwheel and the bobbin winder with a single belt running in a triangular path causes traction problems at the motor, due to decreased belt contact area (from 90 degrees to about 60 degrees). This can be compensated by high belt tension, but that in turn will wear out the bearings and quickly exhaust a stretch belt. Driving the bobbin winder with a separate belt, hooked onto the motor pulley whenever needed, means that the standard V belt cannot be used to drive the handwheel.
A less-desirable stretch belt, easier to get onto and off the motor pulley, must be used instead.One solution to the problem has been spotted in a wild: tack-weld a second pulley onto the motor pulley, as shown in the picture.Sewing lamp. Singerlight clone and motor from MercuryMotor kits usually included a sewing lamp.
Singer's motor kits and factory motorizations each included one of two different sorts of lamp:. Spotlights cast their light in just one direction and are known to run hot. They attach at any screw-hole on the machine, using a short metal arm with thumbscrew. 'Singerlights' have an elongated bulb and shade which casts its light over most of the bed. They attach to the machine's pillar access port underneath the round cover, sharing its thumbscrew. The Singerlight compatible with 27-series machines is Singer part number B428. It was originally invented by Frederick Diehl in 1921, and a coworker soon followed with additional patented improvements.As there were many clones of the add-on motor, so also were there many clones of the Singerlight., aka MEPM, was one of the third-party vendors of such products.Finish and decals Most machines in this model series are painted in lacquer, but some of the later variants (127-12, 127-14, 127-23, 128-8, 128-12, 128-14, and 128-18) were instead finished in the newly fashionable, low-glare 'black wrinkle' (aka 'Godzilla' or 'black crinkle') finish.
They were all then 'ornamented' with extensive eye-catching decals. Common decal sets have names and are shown below; alternatively, many machines carry nondescript floral patterns. 14' puzzle boxSinger accessory kits were sold in fold-out 'Style' boxes, numbered consecutively as newer versions evolved from older ones. The numbers begin at 1 ('Style No.
1') and culminate at 14 during the era of the 27 model series. The boxes included accessory attachments for, braiding, underbraiding, and, plus spare needles, screws, and screwdrivers.Today such a box is called a 'puzzle box', but this is a recent term: it is not mentioned in the original Style manuals.Hemstitcher Singer separately sold a attachment that is compatible with 27-series machines. The original version is a passive device, Singer part number 28915. Later, a more sophisticated needle-clamp-powered attachment was offered—Singer part number 121387.Buttonholer.
Singer model 160985 zigzagger Singer made an attachment similar to its buttonholer, and using a similar needle-clamp-powered locomotion, in order to confer some ability on its straight-stitch machines.Of the variety of 'Singer Automatic Zigzagger' attachments produced over the years, two are compatible with 27-series machines: Singer part numbers 160985 and 161102.Blind stitcher The is yet another needle-clamp-powered attachment designed to ease a specific sewing task. Singer part number 160616 is compatible with 27-series machines.In popular culture. In the 2010 film, the Mad Hatter sews hats on a nicely restored model 27-4 hand-crank machine.Notes. 'Newburgh; her institutions, industries and leading citizens; Historical, descriptive and biographical' (1891) compiled by John J.